Outdoor enthusiasts are drawn to Oban and Lorn by the fabulous cycling on offer. The region is also known for its fascinating heritage and historical sites. How about combining the two by riding the Red Fox Trail? Follow this cycle route from Oban to Ballachulish and you’ll find out about the ‘Appin Murder’, one of Scotland’s most famous unsolved murders. It’s a glorious route, providing fantastic off-road cycling, stunning scenery and a big dose of history!
The Red Fox Trail is a section of the Caledonia Way between Ganavan Sands and South Ballachulish. It’s here that, back in 1752, Colin Campbell of Glenure was murdered. More than 100 years later, Robert Louis Stevenson used the Appin Murder story as the background for his novel Kidnapped, in which Colin Campbell was known as the ‘Red Fox’. The trail explains the background to the murder and also explores why James Stewart of Acarn, a local man who was widely considered to be innocent of the crime, was hanged for it.
There are six panels along the route based on 18th century accounts of the murder and trial. They explore the chain of events which sparked the murder, and look at the various murder suspects and possible motives. Cycling the trail gives a fascinating insight into this key period in Scottish history, when ancient clan rivalries were still burning strong.
Campbell was a government-appointed factor managing estates confiscated from Jacobite sympathisers following the 1745 uprising. He represented a deeply hated government, and one which wanted to evict some of the remaining Jacobite sympathisers, largely Stewarts, from lands on which they had lived for generations. The leader of the opposition to the planned evictions was James Stewart of Acharn, whose family estates had been confiscated and were now being managed by Colin Campbell. The day after the murder, James Stewart was arrested as an accomplice to murder. James Stewart was put on trial in Inveraray, with a jury that included 11 Campbells. He was found guilty, although there was no evidence. On 8 November 1752 he was hanged from a scaffold overlooking the southern end of the Ballachulish Bridge.
The trail tells you much about this famous murder, but it doesn’t reveal the identity of the real murderer. It’s said that the truth has been passed down through the generations of the Stewarts of Appin, but that they’re sworn to secrecy.
The Caledonia Way, National Route 78 of the National Cycle Network, runs from Campbeltown in Kintyre all the way to Inverness. Most of the 48-miles section between Oban and Fort William is on wonderful, traffic-free paths, so is great for family cycling. Much of the path between Oban and Ballachulish is built along the former railway line which ran from Connel to the slate quarries near Ballachulish. The path has great views, hugging the coast for much of the way and has very few gradients.
Other highlights of this cycle route include almost traffic-free sections that joins minor roads through Barcaldine and the forest of Sutherland’s Grove. At Creagan road bridge you’ll see signs for the Loch Creran Loop, a six-mile route on quiet roads. You’ll also cycle past the beautiful Castle Stalker. If you fancy an island detour, look out for the signs for the Port Appin Loop, This takes you down to Port Appin where you can catch the passenger ferry to the Isle of Lismore.
The island is a perfect size for cycling round with good quiet roads and an excellent tearoom and museum. Lismore can be reached from Oban and Appin. You can catch the ferry from Oban to Lismore, cycle up the island and catch the ferry back to Appin then cycle back to Oban to refuel at the Green Seafood Shack or the fabulous cafe, Food From Argyll at The Pier.
Once refreshed, take time our to enjoy Oban's nightlife in some of its many restaurants, pubs or bars. If you've got any energy left, try some ceilidh dancing at The View for the ultimate Highland experience, and a true insight to the fascinating music and culture of Scotland.