Hike the Argyll High Road
Article by Travel Writer Robin McKelvie
“I’m driving from Loch Lomond to Argyll,” said my neighbour Mike. He looked puzzled when I explained that whole swathes of Scotland’s largest loch and the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park are actually in Argyll. And this seriously scenic part of Argyll stacks up brilliantly for a hike with myriad options to choose from, amidst some seriously spectacular scenery.
Mention walking in the Loch Lomond area and most people instantly think of the long distance West Highland Way, which hugs the eastern shores, or the deeply popular Conic Hill and its higher Munro cousin Ben Lomond on the same flank. This trio attract the crowds, leaving much of the swathe of Argyll on the western shores and its hinterland pleasantly quiet.
Image: Start of the John Muir Way in Helensburgh. Credit: Destination Helensburgh
The John Muir Way
The stretch from the Clyde at Helensburgh up over the hills to the banks of Loch Lomond is actually my favourite sector of the entire John Muir Way, the coast to coast epic set up to celebrate the life of a pioneering conservationist who famously declared ‘the mountains are calling and I must go’. He believed in the curative and restorative mental and physical benefits of walking in the great outdoors and you can enjoy them on this nine mile adventure, which spends much of its time in Argyll. The cycling alternative spends even more of its route in Argyll.
This walking route eases away from the pier where Muir left Scotland never to return in 1849 and works up by the brilliant Charles Rennie Mackintosh creation, the National Trust for Scotland's Hill House. It then strives for the hills, with views opening up as you work your way on through the forest and moorland, with the highlight Gouk Hill. The first sighting of Loch Lomond is spectacular as it unfurls in a riot of greenery and islands. The Highland Boundary Fault forges rights across the loch and you can appreciate that from here before you slowly snake down towards its famously bonnie bonnie banks.
Image: Views from the Cowal & Loch Lomond Way
The Cowal & Loch Lomond Way
Another of Scotland’s great long distance walks, The Cowal Way, was recently rebranded and extended to reach the shores of Loch Lomond, a great idea that showcases some great hiking. I love the final section from Lochgoilhead to Inveruglas that soars for 15 miles through some epic landscapes. This long distance trail is gloriously underused compared to the West Highland Way, but I highly recommend it.
Lochgoilhead to Inveruglas is quite a test as you rise from sea level up to 500m, indeed it features the highest climb of the whole trail. You get to walk along the shores of Loch Long, as well as Loch Lomond. Journey’s end handily comes right on the banks of Loch Lomond at the Inveruglas Visitor Centre, with a cafe welcoming tired walkers; there are toilets and a picnic site too. Those not wanting to tackle the higher parts of the route can just enjoy the flatter section between Arrochar and Inveruglas.
Image: The Loch Lomond Arms Hotel is a great stop for lunch!
Go Munro Bagging: Ben Vane
Inveruglas itself is actually a good base for accessing the Munros that glower above the Argyll flank of Loch Lomond. For me they are easily a match for Ben Lomond and never anywhere near as busy, even in summer. I’m a huge fan of Ben Vane, the smallest of all the Munros, which still climbs to a lofty 915m. Very experienced Munro baggers can even push on after Ben Vane to tackle another brace of Munro mountains - Beinn Ìme and Beinn Narnain. Beware, though, that this deeply rewarding achievement makes for a long and often testing day,
Ben Vane tackled on its own is a lovely Munro – make an early start in summer and you can be back down at Inveruglas for a late lunch. I love turning my back on the busy A82 road and slowly working my way up towards the mountain’s lower slopes through the forests. You sneak back views of Loch Lomond as you go. Those views of the loch just keep getting better and better as you start on the mountain in earnest. There are an energy-sapping number of false summit en route to the top and a short scramble, before the wide and airy summit plateau. The views are utterly sublime with mountains rising like skyscrapers all round, plunging glens, thick forests and the shimmering, now distant, loch.
Image: Discover the walking trails around the picturesque village Luss.
Family Friendly Walks in Loch Lomond
If you want short family-friendly strolls I recommend Luss. Yes, parts of the village can be busy in summer, but you still walk away from the pressure points. Wander to the southern fringes of the village to get away from the crowds, crossing a wee bridge across the burn and exploring the forest and quieter sections of lochside scenery. As soon as you escape the busier parts, Loch Lomond really reveals her timeless beauty.
One Luss option is to explore the Luss Heritage Trail. This comparatively easy walking trail explores the model village of Luss. You get to wander amidst its picture postcard perfect whitewashed stone cottages and along the water to the pier on Loch Lomond. The trail also touches on the riverside and digs into the woodland. En route, highlights include a Viking hogback grave and the Glebe’s Celtic cross sculpture. You should be able to do the whole one and half mile circuit in around an hour even with wee ones. My girls loved exploring it!
I’m delighted to report that not only does my neighbour Mike now know that huge swathes of Loch Lomond and the national park are in Argyll, but also that on his walking day he saved him and his pals a longer drive. They parked up at Inveruglas and had a brilliant day ascending Ben Vane, just one of the glorious walking experiences of all levels you can savour in Argyll around Loch Lomond.
Image: Staying in the area? Check out Loch Lomond Holiday Park.
Walk safe - and enjoy the views!
*Walking safety – Always wear the right gear and a map and a compass with someone in the group able to use them. Check the weather and always let someone know where you are heading and when you plan to be back. Winter walking creates its whole range of challenges that should not to be underestimated.